One of the most common questions we get at Artland is:

“What is the best epoxy resin to buy?”

Our honest answer? It depends on your requirement.

Instead of asking, “What is the best epoxy?”, it’s better to ask: “What is the best epoxy resin for my project?”

There Is No One-Type-for-All Epoxy

Epoxy resins are made for different applications. You’ll find types designed for: Casting, Deep pouring, Coating, Doming, Flexible resins, Structural bonding, Marine use, Under water epoxy, Flooring, Waterproofing and sealing, Epoxy paint, Art and craft, Solid repair pastes (in tubes), and more.

Each one has its own strengths and limitations. Some cure fast but trap bubbles. Others cure slowly but allow deep pours. There are even more technical distinctions like Aliphatic, Cycloaliphatic, or Glycidyl-based epoxies based on the type of hardener used. But for most artists and makers, the key is knowing which resin suits your specific use case.

⚠️ Note: This article is based on epoxy products available in Sri Lanka. Many popular international brands are not widely available locally. We’ve shared this based on our own local experience, testing, and feedback from customers over the years.

“Best” Is a Marketing Word, Not a Technical One

We often see marketing posts claiming: “The best epoxy resin in Sri Lanka! No bubbles! No yellowing! No Clouds!” (“No clouds” usually refers to the absence of amine blush.)

While these resins may genuinely work well for jewelry or flower preservation, they’re not suitable for all types of projects. A resin that works well for a pendant may fail in a river table, or soften under a hot coffee cup.

Be Wary of Misleading Advice

Some sellers intentionally mislead customers by promoting only the epoxy resin they have in stock, regardless of whether it’s suitable for the customer’s specific project. This often stems from limited product knowledge, pressure to sell available stock, or misinformation commonly shared in online groups. To justify their recommendations, they may make false claims such as “other resins are not good” or “that type will damage your mold,” without fully understanding the technical differences between resin types. Unfortunately, this creates confusion for buyers and can lead to poor results, wasted materials, damaged molds, and in some cases, safety risks.

What We’ve Learned at Artland

At Artland, we’ve worked with epoxy resin, polyurethane, and UV resins for over 10 years. We’ve made our share of mistakes given the wrong advice, received complaints, and learned through experience.

That’s why we now take resin selection and testing seriously.

We maintain a small in-house lab, where we:

• Test new batches and formulas
• Modify resins with additives for better results
• Evaluate which products suit which applications
• Help customers understand resin beyond the label

Our goal is simple: To recommend the right epoxy for your project, not just to make a sale.

Understanding Your Needs, and the Responsibility That Comes With Epoxy Use

The purpose of this article is to help buyers identify their specific project needs before choosing an epoxy resin. Once you’re clear about what you’re making, you can ask informed questions like what the resin is best suited for, what its limitations are, and whether it matches your application.

But more importantly, it’s critical to understand that epoxy resin is a chemical product, often made with potentially hazardous components. It is intended for professional or well informed use, not casual or trial and error applications. Using epoxy is not like baking a cake or painting with watercolors, there’s a learning curve, and many variables (mixing ratios, temperature, ventilation, cure time, etc.) affect not only the final result.

By following proper guidelines, learning the basics, and respecting the material, you’ll get better results and reduce the risk of wasted resin or worse, harming yourself or others.

If anyone claims their epoxy can be used for “everything,” or their epoxy is not toxic, it’s important to recognize that this simply isn’t true. There’s no such thing as a one-type-fits-all or non-toxic epoxy. Each resin is formulated for specific purposes, and choosing the wrong type can lead to poor results, wasted materials, and even potential safety risks.

Want hands-on experience? See details about our professional resin classes – Click Here › (Coming Soon)

Misconceptions About Epoxy and Silicone Molds

Some sellers claim that only 24-hour epoxies are safe for silicone molds, while others insist that epoxies with cure times over 8 hours should be avoided. These are misleading generalisation.

In reality, any epoxy can damage a silicone mold if used incorrectly. The real danger often comes from high heat tools like gas burners or heat guns, which can exceed the mold’s heat tolerance and cause permanent damage.

Epoxy generates heat while curing, and the amount depends on factors like: Type of epoxy, Pour thickness, Room temperature, Mix ratio, Additives used ..etc.

Most epoxies stay below 200°C, and good quality silicone molds can usually handle that. However, pouring too thick with a fast-curing resin can cause excessive heat, damaging the mold or even creating a fire risk.

Also note:

• Platinum-cure molds are more heat-resistant
• Tin-cure molds are more prone to damage

Bottom line: It’s not just about cure time it’s how you use the resin that matters.

Learn more in our full article: Misconceptions About Epoxy Resins – Read More › (Coming Soon)
Learn more in our full article: How to extend your Silicone Molds– Read More › (Coming Soon)

Factors to Consider Before Buying Epoxy Resin

Ask yourself these questions before buying:

1. Viscosity: How thick or thin a liquid is. In epoxy resins, viscosity directly affects flow, bubble release, and curing behavior.

Low-viscosity epoxy (thin and runny):

• Flows easily and allows trapped air bubbles to escape more effectively.
• Commonly used in casting, embedding flowers, or deep pours.
• Often has a slower curing time, which helps reduce bubbles but requires longer working and curing times.

High-viscosity epoxy (thicker):

• Tends to trap more bubbles and may need more careful mixing or heat (torch/heat gun/bubble remover spray) to remove surface bubbles.
• Typically cures faster, which is useful for quick projects or thin coatings.
• More suitable for coating, doming, or top layers where thickness control is important.

2. Maximum pour thickness: How deep you can pour the resin in a single layer without causing issues like overheating, cracking, or incomplete curing.

Fast-curing epoxies are designed for thin layers only (usually 1–5mm).

• If poured too thick, they may overheat (exotherm) and crack or cure unevenly.
• Best for coating, doming, or small surface layers.

Slow-curing epoxies (like 24–72 hour cure types) are formulated to handle deeper pours sometimes up to 10–50cm depending on the formula.

• The slower reaction allows heat to dissipate gradually.
• Ideal for casting blocks, embedding flowers, and deep molds.

3. Working Time (Pot Life): How long you can work with the mixed epoxy before it starts to thicken or harden.

• Fast-curing epoxies have a short pot life sometimes as little as 5–15 minutes so you need to work quickly.
• Slow-curing epoxies offer a longer pot life, often 30 minutes to an hour or more, giving you more time to mix, pour, or arrange elements carefully.

4. Cure Time: How long it takes for the epoxy to harden both initially and fully. Most epoxy resins list the initial cure time, which usually means the time until you can safely demold or handle the piece.

However, full chemical curing can take several days, depending on the type of resin. During this time, the resin continues to harden, reach full strength, and become ready for tasks like sanding, polishing, or exposure to heat.

5. UV Resistance: How well the epoxy resin can resist yellowing over time when exposed to light especially sunlight or UV rays.

• While all epoxy resins may show some degree of yellowing eventually, resins contain UV stabilizers or UV-resistant additives that help slow down this process.
• However, yellowing can still occur depending on how the resin is used. Even UV-resistant epoxy can discolor if exposed to excessive heat, direct sunlight for long periods, or improper storage conditions.

6. Odor / VOCs: Smell and the presence of volatile organic compounds in epoxy resin. Some epoxies are labeled low-odor or “suitable for indoor use,” but it's important to note that low odor doesn't always mean low toxicity you might not smell harmful fumes, but they can still be present.
VOCs can affect air quality and may cause health issues with long-term exposure, especially in poorly ventilated areas. Always wear proper protection and work in a well-ventilated space, even with “low-odor” resins.

7. Strength / Tensile Strength / Toughness: How durable or impact-resistant the cured epoxy is, and whether it provides a rigid or flexible finish.

• Art-grade epoxies are usually designed for appearance (clarity, bubble-free finish) and are not meant for high-stress or load-bearing applications.
• Industrial-grade epoxies, on the other hand, are formulated for higher strength, better tensile resistance, and increased toughness, making them more suitable for structural use, functional parts, and repairs.

8. Heat Resistance: How well the cured epoxy can withstand exposure to heat such as hot cups, direct sunlight, or warm surfaces.

• Art-grade epoxies generally have low heat resistance and may become soft or bend when exposed to heat.
• Industrial-grade epoxies are designed to handle higher temperatures and are more suitable for functional items like coasters, trays, or tools that may come into contact with hot objects.

9. Amine blush is a greasy or waxy layer that can form on the surface of epoxy during curing, especially in cool, humid environments. It occurs due to a reaction between amine based hardeners and moisture/CO₂ in the air.

• It is more common in epoxies using standard (non-cycloaliphatic) amine hardeners, especially in industrial-grade or high-performance epoxies.
• Epoxies that tend to blush are often formulated for higher strength, higher temperature resistance, or better adhesion, which may explain the observed correlation in some products.
• Many art-grade resins are formulated to resist or completely avoid amine blush by using modified or aliphatic hardeners, but may sacrifice heat resistance or mechanical strength.

As a resin artist or maker, it's important to understand the basic terms we’ve explained above. These factors directly affect your final result. Before buying epoxy, take a moment to think about your specific project requirements. Then, clearly communicate those needs to your resin supplier. This way, you're more likely to get the right product and avoid costly mistakes.

Below are a few practical examples to show how different project types require different kinds of epoxy and how you can define your requirements before choosing the resin.

Example #1: Making a Pendant with Dried Flowers

Project Requirement: Let’s say you’re making a pendant with embedded dried flowers. You want the finish to be crystal clear like glass, bubble-free, and resistant to yellowing over time. There’s no rush, so you have enough time for proper curing and finishing without time pressure.

Recommended Resin Type: You can use a slow-curing bubble free epoxy resin with a 24 hour cure time either an industrial-grade or art-grade crystal clear type. (Product: 2:1 Bubble Free Epoxy)

Why This Resin?

• Low viscosity = minimal bubbles
• Supports up to 10mm thickness
• 30+ minutes working time = enough time to place flowers carefully
• UV-resistant = less yellowing over time

Things to watch out for:

• Flower colors may bleed due to slow curing → seal your flowers first
• Soft/bendy texture after 24hrs → wait for full cure (may take 4-7 days) before polishing
• You may need a top coat to finish the pendant

Example #2: Making 100 Key Tags in 2–3 Days

Project Requirement: Let’s say you’ve received an order for 100 key tags and need to complete them within 2–3 days. You only have two 15-cavity molds, and each key tag requires a white colored back, a gold stones with letters layer, and then finally a clear topcoat.

Recommended Resin Type: You can use a fast-curing epoxy resin with a 6–8 hour cure time either an industrial-grade or art-grade crystal clear type, depending on the finish and clarity you need. (Product: 2:1 Super Clear Epoxy resin)

Why This Resin?

1. Medium viscosity:
   It may produce some bubbles depending on your mixing technique. However, when mixed with pigments (like white), bubbles are usually not visible.
2. Pour thickness up to 5mm: Suitable for key tags and similar small castings.
3. Working time around 15+ minutes: Gives you enough time to pour and work with the colored layers before it starts to gel.
4. Fast demolding time (around 6 hours): With just 2 molds (2 × 15 cavities), you can complete 3–4 casting cycles in 24 hours, producing 60-90 pieces per day.
   In contrast, a 24-hour cure epoxy would allow you to produce only 30 pieces per day at most.
5. UV-resistant: Reduces yellowing over time, especially important for the clear topcoat.
6. Good for topcoating: When mixed carefully, this resin produces a clear, glossy finish with minimal to no bubbles ideal for 1–2mm topcoats. Alternatively, for an even smoother out-of-mold finish, you can use a dedicated bubble free 24hr epoxy resin specifically for the topcoat layer.
7. Quick polishing: You can polish or finish the key tags the next day. With a slower 24-hour resin, you'd need to wait at least 2–3 days before polishing.

Things to Watch Out For:

• Mix carefully to minimize bubbles especially in the clear coat stage.
• Mix small batches (preferably under 150g) to avoid overheating or flash curing.
• Pour within 15 minutes of mixing to maintain flow and clarity.

Example #3: Making Resin Coasters for a Café

Project Requirement: You've received an order for tea/coffee coasters to be used in a café setting. Each coaster needs a white-colored base, the café logo, and a clear protective topcoat.

Recommended Resin Type: Use a fast-curing industrial-grade clear epoxy resin.
Art-grade epoxies may not handle high temperatures well, especially from hot tea or coffee cups. An industrial-grade epoxy offers better heat resistance, making it more suitable for functional items like coasters. (Product: 2:1 Super Clear / 3:1 Crystal Clear)

Why This Resin?

• Medium viscosity: May create some bubbles depending on how you mix, but these are usually not visible when pigment (e.g., white) is added.
  
• Pour thickness up to 5mm: Ideal for coasters and small flat items.
• Working time of 15–20 minutes: Enough time to pour the colored layer and place the logo before it starts to cure.
  
• Demolding time: Typically between 8–24 hours, depending on resin and room conditions.
  
• Topcoating options: You can apply the same industrial-grade epoxy as a topcoat. Alternatively, for higher heat resistance and UV protection (especially if used outdoors or in direct sunlight), a polyurethane (PU) topcoat is recommended.

Things to Watch Out For:

• Mix carefully to reduce bubbles, especially in the clear top layer.
• Always mix in small batches (under 150g) to prevent overheating or premature curing.
• Pour the resin within 15–20 minutes after mixing to ensure good flow and clarity.
• If using PU resin, apply it after demolding, as it can damage silicone molds if poured directly inside them.

Example #4: Flower Preservation in Resin

Project Requirement: You’ve received a wedding bouquet to preserve in resin. The flowers need to be dried using silica gel before embedding them in epoxy. The final piece may be a block, tray, or ornament with visible preserved flowers.

Recommended Resin Type: (2:1 Bubble Free 24hrs Epoxy / 2:1 Deep Pour 72hrs Epoxy)

• Use an art-grade, slow-curing epoxy resin either a 24-hour crystal-clear epoxy or a 72-hour deep-pour epoxy, depending on the thickness required.
• For shallow to medium thickness pieces, 24-hour epoxy can be poured in multiple layers.
• For thicker castings, a 72-hour deep-pour epoxy is better since it allows thicker pours (usually up to 5–10cm) in fewer layers.

Why This Resin?

• Low viscosity: Helps bubbles rise to the surface and escape, ideal for encapsulating delicate flowers.
• Crystal-clear finish: Essential for flower visibility and presentation.
• Extended working time: Gives you enough time to arrange flowers carefully before the resin starts to set.

Things to Watch Out For:

• Color bleeding: Slow-curing, low-viscosity epoxy may cause flower colors or inks to bleed. Always seal the flowers and other elements before embedding in resin.
• Layering: For 24-hour epoxy, you may need to pour in multiple thin layers to avoid overheating or resin distortion.
• Full cure time: Wait at least 7 days for the resin to fully cure before polishing or finishing, especially with deep-pour epoxies.

Final Thoughts

Before asking, “What’s the best epoxy resin?” take a step back and ask yourself the more important question: “What exactly am I trying to make?”

Each epoxy resin is formulated for a specific purpose. Once you clearly define your project’s needs whether it’s clarity, strength, heat resistance, working time, or pour depth choosing the right resin becomes much easier and helps you avoid common mistakes, wasted materials, and disappointment.

At Artland, we don’t just sell resin, we work with it, test it, and learn from it every day. We may not always tell you what you want to hear, but we’ll always try to guide you toward the most suitable option based on your requirements. Whether you're making one pendant or 100 coasters, we’re here to help you get it right.

Note on Accuracy and Updates

We are committed to keeping this article accurate and up to date. As new information becomes available or corrections are needed, we will continue to review and update this content accordingly.

If you notice any incorrect information or have suggestions based on your experience, please feel free to contact us. We appreciate your feedback and are always happy to review and improve our content.